ZF67 wrote:see thats where i am at ^^^ DTR performance here in arizona set up my bike for firebird main. when i was racing ccs, and they said something weird about my model years zx6r having a spacer of some sort where the rear shock mounts (on the top side) to the frame. and when he pushed my fork caps down and made them smooth with the top of my claps (increasing the rake, it obviously makes the bike turn slower) but i didnt have any shake problems that i could remember, and then when i started adjusting the bike for arroyo , we slid the tubes back down into the clamps, and now i have about 3-4 mm of my caps and legs showing ontop of my tripple clamps i am having GNARLY shake problems again, but i like how the bike turns in now, an it rails around corners awesome. so is it more or less finding a "sweetspot" in the front fork tube to tripple clamps depth, or is there a way to keep the same rake, and fork set depth, but try to get rid of the kicking and ripping the bars out of my hands another way?
so tony could you even tell the diffrence between the stabilizers when they are on the bike? one vs another?
ZF67 wrote:So i use a measuring tape, and measure the distance from the swing arm pivot bolt to the the rear axle on each side to make sure they measure the same on each side to make sure my rear tire is set straight? Even though the measurements change when u adjust ur chain, as long as both are the same it should be fine?
kz2zx wrote:ZF67 wrote:So i use a measuring tape, and measure the distance from the swing arm pivot bolt to the the rear axle on each side to make sure they measure the same on each side to make sure my rear tire is set straight? Even though the measurements change when u adjust ur chain, as long as both are the same it should be fine?
I don't think you've quite got what I meant... I mean the ANGLE of the line between the pivot and the axle relative to the ground. It should be set up for most bikes to be about 12.4 to 13.0 degrees. This means the rear's not too high or low relative to the front, and the front isn't too high or low, relative to the rear. It's a good measure because if you have your bike set up tall (like my 1K7), you can still get the geometry 'right', even if (like my 1K7) I'm 31mm taller than stock geometry.
Headshake on touchdown is most likely nose-high due to lack of 'anti-squat' (swingarm angle too flat/rear shock length or shim too low) or steering bearings.
ZF67 wrote:Awesome thx for the input guys. Ya like i said , its only like a once a weekend. Problem, like ill be coming out of the corner rolling it onto w.o.t. 16 grand shifting into 3rd gear and the front tire will set back down and start kicking the bars rearlly hard trying to rip them outta my hand. So i try to pull in the clutch and wrestle the bike back and try to save it till is good enough to get back on the gas.
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