Basic Questions

[derrickdel]

My name is Derrick and I have only been to two trackdays so far. I have a 2012 GSX-R 750 and was wondering a few things...
1. What is an appropriate tire pressure for ASR this time of year with the stock Bridgestone Battlax BT-016 tired front and rear? And for the road?
2. What is an ideal gearing for ASR? OEM gearing is 17 in front and 45 rear. Available is 14-17 front and 39-54 rear.
3 Finally, I'm not sure if this is just in my head or what, but turning right feels harder/strange compared to turning left. I don't remember it being like that on my old R6. Is there a setting for this lol?

[EP_Shane_600]

-2+,3,4 is what most run i believe. get real tires

[kz2zx]

Derrick,

Here's what Shane meant to say:

Trackdays and racing are moderately expensive. Tires are a place where you're better off spending more, knowing you're going to grind the dollars into dust.

Takeoffs are a good option for new track riders. If you use them, we can offer more-sensible advice for pressures and the like for use on the track.

Street tires will work to a point - and you may be able to get to that point quickly. For your first trackday, it's probably a safe bet your street tires will work. Listen to Roger or anyone coaching you, especially if they advise moving to a track-purposed tire.

If you use takeoffs to keep costs down, they'll work to a point, also. After that point, you probably want to take up racing and use new tires. Your idea of what's affordable evolves at that point.

[Roger@Arroyo]

016's are fine down to around 1:22's or so for most people.

Gearing would be around 14-46 for that bike iirc.

Tire pressures for 016's should be around 30-30 set cold in the morning and left all day. For the street I'd run around 35psi both ends.

Shouldn't have any issues on turning easier one way than the other, as long as the bike hasn't been down. The only other thing that could cause it to turn easier one direction vs the other would be mis-aligned rear wheel.

[blendedfamily]

the turning thing could just be you, when both I first started riding, I felt more confident leaning to my right side then left -- after a while you don't really notice a difference..

[EP_Shane_600]

Derrick,

Here's what Shane meant to say:

Trackdays and racing are moderately expensive. Tires are a place where you're better off spending more, knowing you're going to grind the dollars into dust.

Takeoffs are a good option for new track riders. If you use them, we can offer more-sensible advice for pressures and the like for use on the track.

Street tires will work to a point - and you may be able to get to that point quickly. For your first trackday, it's probably a safe bet your street tires will work. Listen to Roger or anyone coaching you, especially if they advise moving to a track-purposed tire.

If you use takeoffs to keep costs down, they'll work to a point, also. After that point, you probably want to take up racing and use new tires. Your idea of what's affordable evolves at that point.

Yes Dave thats exactly what I meant... I wasnt able to type too much driving. Talk to Mickey about getting take offs or Mike Browne if he is around. 2 Best guys to get takeoffs from. Marios also has good take offs if he is not running the 1k with the 200 rear.

[derrickdel]

Thanks for the advice! Couple more questions, when street riding, is there any harm in using the engine brake to slow down at traffic lights and at all other times? Also, I have had two near crashes now almost overshooting a turn practicing out near the airport but on the other side of the freeway where i went to downshift into first from second relying on the engine brake to do some of the work slowing me down and accidentaly went into neutral. Why is it harder to get into first from neutral than it is to get into first from second? Seems like once im in neutral it rattles before going down into first?

[ZF67]

Cant wait to see ya come over next time your out there and say hi. Ill show you the wrong way to do everything. (The track is also one of the safest ways to practice techniques that would other wise be considered reckless on the streets)

[blendedfamily]

Derrick

Sounds like you just missed a shift, which isn't common, but its happened to all of us. Some people will mention, "false neutral", where the gear isnt completely engaged, and it makes an awful noise when you plunk it back into gear. Id save your bodywork for practice this weekend -- way safer than having an incident on the street..

[chefboyartie]

Blip the throttle before you try to put the bike into first from neutral. A lot of engine braking causes unnecessary wear and tear on the motor. That's what brakes are for. I hope to see you out there and do not be shy about asking anyone questions.

[kz2zx]

NO harm in using the engine to brake/slow, unless you'd make it spin much over redline by doing so (like, shoving it into first at 140MPH).

We do this all the time racing.

First gear is the biggest gear on the output shaft, and takes the most change in momentum to engage, thus your 'harder to get into first while moving'. I seldom use 'engine braking' in first gear, doing that in second as I coast to a stop - clutch in, braking for the final few MPH, finding first before I've fully stopped rolling (clutch in).

It's been a very long time since I've ridden on the street, though. Late 2004, to be exact, New Year's Eve (in the morning, while the roads are empty).

[chefboyartie]

I am a everyday rider on the streets and use as lil engine braking as possible (on the streets) for the reasons stated. Dave is right though on the track engine braking is used at every turn.

[mr_gixxxer1k]

so about blipping the throttle is it really necessary? Off the straight away i shift all the way down to the gear i want while i still have the clutch in then i slowly release it going into the turn is this method also bad for the engine? Good techinque or bad idea?
sorry for the thread jack but i thought it would fit with the changing gears topic.

[blendedfamily]

the throttle blip is an attempt to match engine rpm to what it was: I.e: you're in 6th gear at 6000 rpm, when you downshift to 3rd, you'll be at 14000, so you attempt to gain similar engine speed in an effort to keep the bike happy with you, and more stable. I know Roger uses the clutch rolling method in a few places, (exiting the esses and entering 111R, CW[I think}) and although I cant speak for others, I try not to other than that area. For one, its just one more thing to think of while trail braking, setting up your entry/exit, thinking about next weeks work schedule, etc... and, If you get a wee bit too excited, and drop the clutch too fast, you'll snap the chain tight real quick and step the rear end of the bike out, causing you to either fall off, or go way slower than you intended..

[Roger@Arroyo]

so about blipping the throttle is it really necessary? Off the straight away i shift all the way down to the gear i want while i still have the clutch in then i slowly release it going into the turn is this method also bad for the engine? Good techinque or bad idea?
sorry for the thread jack but i thought it would fit with the changing gears topic.

Generally doing it that way seems strange to me. Using the "blip" method and going through gears individually allows you to not only know what gear you're in, the transmission shifts smoother, and, like Tony said, you take the chance of letting out the clutch too early or even worse, grabbing an extra downshift which will totally screw the corner, if not your day.

For instance, going ccw, coming off the back straight: On my bike, I let off the throttle around the 4, start braking around the 2.5-3 mark and one downshift before exiting the straight. Then, after I'm off the dragstrip I do two more downshifts while bending into the main part of the corner. If I tried to get all my downshifts done while on the straight I'd be way slow entering the corner.

[mr_gixxxer1k]

cool got it thanks